Cultural Appropriation vs. Appreciation in Modern Fashion
Fashion is one of the most creative and expressive industries out there. It allows us to tell stories, celebrate traditions, and push boundaries. But there’s a fine line between drawing inspiration and crossing into problematic territory—especially when it comes to incorporating elements from other cultures. The ongoing debate about cultural appropriation versus appreciation in modern fashion is complex, but it’s also incredibly important. So, let’s break it down.
What Is Cultural Appropriation in Fashion?
Cultural appropriation happens when elements of one culture, often belonging to historically marginalized or oppressed groups, are taken and used out of context—usually by members of a dominant culture. It’s not just about borrowing; it’s about power dynamics. When done without understanding or respect, it can feel exploitative and disrespectful to the culture being referenced.
Think of high-profile examples like designer collections featuring sacred Indigenous headdresses as accessories or fast fashion brands profiting off African prints without acknowledging their origins. These instances often strip cultural symbols of their meaning and reduce them to aesthetic trends.
The core issue is that these borrowed elements are often used without permission, credit, or understanding, while the people who originated them might face discrimination for wearing the same items. For example, Black women have long been criticized for wearing hairstyles like cornrows or locs, only to see these styles embraced as “trendy” when worn by non-Black celebrities.
What Does Cultural Appreciation Look Like?
On the flip side, cultural appreciation is about respect, understanding, and genuine celebration. When done thoughtfully, it can be a powerful way to honor a culture’s beauty and significance. The key is to approach with humility and curiosity—learning about the culture, working with artisans, and giving credit where it’s due.
Take, for example, brands that collaborate with Indigenous communities to create garments while ensuring fair wages and giving artisans a platform to share their stories. Or designers who explicitly acknowledge the cultural roots of their inspirations and strive to present them authentically.
Cultural appreciation means going beyond the surface. It’s not about cherry-picking the “cool” parts of a culture but valuing it as a whole and respecting the people who carry its traditions.
Why Does It Matter?
Some people might argue, “It’s just fashion,” but the truth is, fashion has never been just about clothes. It’s a reflection of society, history, and identity. When cultural symbols are reduced to trends, it can feel like erasure to those who hold them dear. Imagine seeing a deeply meaningful aspect of your heritage turned into a costume or a quirky Instagram accessory. It stings.
Moreover, cultural appropriation perpetuates unequal power dynamics. It allows people from dominant cultures to profit off traditions they don’t fully understand, often while ignoring the struggles faced by the communities they’re borrowing from.
How Can Designers and Consumers Do Better?
Navigating this conversation isn’t always easy, but it’s worth the effort. Whether you’re a designer, a brand, or just someone who loves fashion, there are ways to engage with other cultures respectfully.
- Educate Yourself: Before incorporating a cultural element, learn about its history and significance. What does it mean to the people who created it? Is it sacred or reserved for specific occasions? Understanding these nuances is critical.
- Collaborate and Credit: If you’re inspired by a particular culture, consider collaborating with artisans or designers from that community. Not only does this ensure authenticity, but it also creates economic opportunities for the people who own the culture. Always give credit where it’s due—whether that’s in a runway show, a product description, or a social media post.
- Ask Questions, Not Just “Can I?” but “Should I?”: Just because something looks beautiful doesn’t mean it’s appropriate to use. For instance, items like religious symbols or ceremonial attire often have deep spiritual meanings that shouldn’t be commercialized.
- Support Ethical Brands: As consumers, we have the power to choose where we spend our money. Support brands that prioritize ethical practices and respect cultural heritage. Seek out labels that work directly with communities to produce their pieces.
When in Doubt, Listen
One of the best ways to avoid missteps is to listen to the voices of the people whose cultures you admire. If someone says, “This feels like appropriation,” don’t dismiss their concerns. Engage in dialogue, reflect, and adjust your approach if necessary. Intent matters, but impact matters more.
A Future of Fashion Rooted in Respect
Fashion has the power to unite us, celebrate diversity, and tell meaningful stories—if we do it right. By striving for cultural appreciation rather than appropriation, we can create a fashion world that honors traditions while inspiring creativity. It’s not about never borrowing or being inspired; it’s about doing so in a way that uplifts and respects the cultures we admire.
So next time you see a beautiful pattern, a striking design, or an intriguing accessory from another culture, ask yourself: Am I appreciating this, or appropriating it? With a little thoughtfulness, fashion can continue to be a force for good.